Keeping
Daphnia can be easy, consistent and long term, but
unfortunately, they are at first a slightly more challenging
live food to maintain. Daphnia are a small
Crustacean of the order Cladocera, sometimes called "water
fleas" because of their rounded shape, small
size and "hopping" swimming style. They are common in ponds
around the world. I have found that they will
thrive on a number of foods, and though they do best best in
outdoor tubs, they can be kept in an aquarium
indoors for extended periods. Daphnia are one of the most
nutritious foods that can be fed to aquarium fish. Your success
with them will depend on: 1. The species you
work with and whether it is a wild or a domestic line,
(domestically bred lines prove to be more
forgiving and crash less often), 2. What you
feed them- and I have a recipe I use below, 3.
How consistently you choose to maintain the
water, and
4. Whether you keep them indoors or out.
My choosing to raise daphnia is a result of needing a food that
can be raised in fairly large quantities, doesn't need
to be refrigerated, doesn't get loose, is easy and inexpensive
to feed, while being one of the most nutritious
foods to
feed. For me, the journey toward my now keeping Daphnia simply
and reliably has been worth it, but getting started
was a little tricky. My experience has been: There are more than
one species of Daphnia, and many cultivated lines
within those species, besides what are available to be caught
in the wild. Some are available online through biological
supply houses, some may be available from a local pond, and
some can come from other hobbyists. I have the Russian
Red Daphnia originally released into the hobby by Jim
Langhammer. If you can find them, they are a hardy and prolific
line.
Often, daphnia simply brought home from the local
pond will do OK as you get them started, but then will
unexplainably "crash', where a slight change
in feeding schedule or water temp or whatever may cause them all
to die off suddenly. Keeping 3 or 4
groups going at a time helps this, but I have found that
starting off with a hardier strain that has been
kept by those raising them for the aquarium hobby leads to
less frustration. I would expect that wild strains will do
better in outdoor tubs, but I have not tried them that way. I
raise most of my Russian Red daphnia in outdoor tubs,
as that is the only way to produce enough for my needs. Personally, I have not been able to
raise daphnia indoors in sufficient quantities to justify the
tank space required, though I can keep
them thriving. Many people routinely keep them indoors, and some
raise them in fair quantities. Your
success may vary, but when raised in tubs outdoors you shouldn't
lose them once a feeding schedule that works for them is established, particularly after a season or two
when they have come back for you in the spring. I keep
some Daphnia indoors during the summer months by letting
populations thrive in fry tanks- they will have young that
are eaten, while the adults aren't bothered, and they don't
bother the fry. I also keep daphnia going in small containers
holding females about to drop fry as they
don't foul the water and will survive for long periods, while
eagerly eaten by the fish. And with each
year, the daphnia that come back are gradually better suited to
your environment.
Daphnia are used to detect minute changes in water chemistry and
are very sensitive to change or inconsistent
water maintenance. The best way I know of to get Daphnia going
is to fill a large (at least 30 gallon) trough or tub
with water outdoors in moderate sun during the early spring. Add
some manure- poultry manure is best, and let it
break down and cause the water over a couple weeks to become
green with algea. If
you are lucky, Daphnia may appear anyway,
but don't count on it. When the daphnia you wish to use is
obtained, float them in a bag to adjust
the temperatures, then release them to feast and multiply in the
green water. As the water clears, introduce them
to the Daphnia food mix. Do not overfeed. I usually add a few
plants to help maintain
water quality. Do not
redose the manure.
Let mulm build up on the bottom. I do not provide aeration or
heat to my outdoor tubs. Keep water level up by
adding clean, aged aquarium water and change out 10-15% of the
water with seasoned aquarium water about
no less than every 2 weeks from mid April to mid September. I
will siphon out most of the bottom mulm about
midsummer. They will overwinter, even when frozen solid- I have
had outdoor tubs that froze solid, and the
daphnia did return in the spring, provided the tub is not
allowed to dry out (and even then they may reappear, but I
have not allowed a tub to do that). My colony is now into its
8th year. (2015) For keeping them indoors, aeration is
usually recommended with a sponge filter, regular
water changes and strong
light.
Sparingly feed
the mix daily, and keep two or three populations going. Never
overfeed. With indoor colonies, keep the
bottom of their tank siphoned clean, and do about 10-20% weekly
water changes (because you are dealing
with smaller tanks than the outdoor tubs, and as I mentioned,
they are particularly sensitive to water
changes). Experiment with feeding yeast occasionally, adding new
food only after the water has cleared.
Overfeeding is the main cause of population crashes. Use a more
open mesh net to catch and feed the adult
daphnia to get the most from the culture. They reproduce
quickly, and mistakes can be easily recovered from if
there are live individuals left. If it does crash on you, do a
water change and wait. It is possible that hibernating
cysts may come to life and restart your culture. If after a week
you do not see any life, you will need to re-obtain
another culture and start over. Never
use fresh tap water for water
changes, especially if it has not been dechlorinated- I
always use clean aquarium water from a
healthy tank nearby. Once I choose a tank to use, I always use
water from the same tank. I had to try
things a couple times to get it dialed in, but the result for me
has been 100 gallon tubs that in the
sunlight mid summer will show broad bright red balls of Daphnia
a foot across to feed from. They, the
red worms,
brine shrimp and
Vinegar Eels have proven to
be the low maintenance, abundant, easy to
harvest, no getting loose, biting, or disease carrying live
foods I had hoped for.
Daphnia / Small Fry Food Mix
A consistent supply of green water is always
best, but in the quantities I'd need, an alternative is
essential. This mix is what I am
currently using, arrived upon over the last 5 years of testing
what has worked best for me. You will
notice I do not use yeast in the basic mix; but I alternate
yeast and mix feedings, one every other day,
and that has worked well. Mix
together 1 cup regular flour, 1 cup soy flour, 1/3 cup Paprika,
set aside. In blender or food processor, finely
grind down a vitamin enriched spirulina flake food from a vendor
such as Jehmco or Brine shrimp Direct to create
1.5- 2 cups of very finely powdered vegetable food. Then mix the
powdered vegetable flake into 1 cup of the flour mix
until the overall color of the final dry mix is uniformly green.
You will end up with about 2-3 cups of prepared food.
Refrigerate the mix that's ready and freeze the rest for the
next batch. I then put 2 tablespoons of this final mix into a
16 oz. jar filled with luke-warm water, shaking thoroughly. I
then add this water-based mix sparingly to the Daphnia
tub with a turkey baster every other day, (about a baster
full of food mix for each 100 gallon tub) shaking the mix
thoroughly each day, which further breaks it down, until it has
been used up. I feed active dry yeast- about 1/2 tsp. into
a cup of warm aquarium water on alternate days. Let the yeast
water sit for 5 minutes for yeast to "bloom", then stir
and dose into tubs. Do not overfeed, allow to become only
slightly cloudy. Keep the watered flour/spirulina mix
refrigerated. I make a fresh batch about every 10-14 days based
on the amount of Daphnia I am feeding. I will also
feed the yellow/green water after the solid material has settled
to the bottom of the mix to my really small egg layer fry,
and the Daphnia mix as is to livebearer fry, eventually
supplementing it with Vinegar
Eels, then Baby Brine Shrimp
as soon as the fry are large enough.
(Update- 2015)- I no longer feed the daphnia mix to fry, but
feed a finely ground mix of the ground
green flake, a ground high protein pellet and a mix of crushed
krill and freeze dried copepods. That is
my fry mix.
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