Most of the fish sold here are as easy to keep as any regular tropical fish that you would buy at a local fish store. Some are even
    easier, in that they are not far removed from the wild, and do not carry the effects of poor breeding or weak past lineage. The
    brilliant colors on some of these fish, such as the Xiphophorus alvarezi and Xiphophorus mayae have not been selectively bred
    to look the way they do- that is actually how they appear in the wild- most are from Mexico, which is part of what makes these
    fish so fascinating.

    Some species are definitely easier to keep than others, reproduce at different rates, or take longer to mature- information that
    generally does not appear in the basic husbandry information. The difficulty with some fish may not be their maintenance, but the
    culling that should be done to maintain the line's appearance, such as with the I. furcidens or X. nezahualcoyotl.
    Hopefully with the material below you can determine which species are best for you, and links will take you to more information
    provided at this site. Unfortunately, my experiences at fishkeeping may not duplicate yours, as our water differs, etc., but I have
    tried to list them roughly in the order of difficulty I find them to be, from the easiest to keep to those where you need to be
    consistent with their care as they may be less forgiving during lapses. You can tour the fishroom and see how all of the fish are
    kept and bred Here.

    Those that reproduce regularly, and in larger numbers, can tolerate some deterioration of water quality, will eat most any quality
    dry commercial tropical fish food, and behave well with one another and other species were considered easiest. Those who were
    sensitive to circumstances that wouldn't bother most fish, or require selective breeding to maintain the strain, breed infrequently or
    in low numbers, or need special care or circumstances to breed were considered to be more difficult.

    If you see a fish you would like but that is not currently available, simply email selectaquatics@gmail.com, with the species you'd
    like, and I'll contact you when they are ready to ship and ask if you are still interested.
   

    Greg Sage, Owner, Select Aquatics.

    _______________________________________________

    How they are kept here:

    All of the species sold by Select Aquatics were chosen over time for their ability to do well in this fishroom. The tanks are kept
    consistent in that all are bare bottom (no gravel) with box filters- generally one 4" round filter for each 10 gallon tank, 2 filters
    for 20, 30, and 40 gallon, 3 for 50 and 4 for the 100 gallon tanks. They provide adequate filtration when the floss is changed
    at least monthly, while providing moderate to heavy aeration with some water movement, required for the optimum health
    of most of the species offered here. The air is provided from a central 1/4hp blower. 

    Most of the tanks contain generous amounts of Java Fern, Java Moss, Bolbitis Fern and a variety of potted Amazon
    swords, Crypts. and Anubias. Some tanks are covered with cut to fit plastic honeycomb light covers and all receive moderate light
    from standard 13W CFL bulbs 10-14 hours per day. I do not use CO2, but do treat with the Rapid Grow fertilizer available at this site.
    Water is changed daily 15% on an automatic system, but if you are doing weekly 20% changes or bi-monthly 50% changes, you should
    be fine if the filtration is good and the tank is not overstocked. For fish up to 3 inches, a rule of no more than an inch of fish per
    gallon applies. When the fish are larger, fewer fish can be kept.
   
    Adequate aeration and some water movement is provided from in-tank box filters in every tank, and the floss is changed monthly.
    The fishroom temperature fluctuates seasonally from 68-78 degrees. Some tanks have heaters, and the swords are generally kept
    around 72-76 degrees. The goodeids are allowed to get a little cooler, and fry of all species are kept slightly warmer. Livebearers
    generally prefer harder water, but my water is soft at 90ppm. You may find that with slightly harder water these fish will do even
    better than they do here. The pH is 7.4.
   
    Each of these are hardy, peaceful with their own species and reproduce well, but a few require more attention than others, or are
    prone to die-offs when water conditions are allowed to deteriorate. This information can help you make the best choices for your
    aquarium.

     Click on each pic to enlarge.

  E

  A

  S

  Y

    Danio roseus- This larger (2.5-3 inches), reflective royal blue danio with red fins is a hardy, active, easy
    to breed schooling fish that requires good filtration and aeration with a decent quality flake food. Though
    larger, they are entirely non-aggressive. Tolerant of slightly cooler temperatures, they will do well from
    70-78 degrees and are an excellent community fish in any livebearer tank.

                            Danio roseus Page            Danio roseus Care Page

    Xiphophorus alvarezi is similar to X. helleri and lives within similar water quality and requirements as the
    X. helleri- the swordtail originally used to create the swordtails in pet shops, but it is even more colorful.
    Peaceful as a community fish, the female will drop 20-40 young approx. every 30 days. These will eat their
    young more readily than the X. mayae, and appreciate having plants to swim in, but are not shy or easily
    startled.

                                X. alvarezi Page              Videos                X. alvarezi Care Tips
 

    Alfaro cultratus is an active, peaceful schooling fish that feeds at the surface. They are perfectly hardy
    with active aeration and good filtration. Females produce 10-25 young monthly. However, they will
    occasionally produce broods with very few males, or few females. They will also sometimes
    eat their fairly small fry, making removing the fry and raising them separately for their first few
    weeks a necessity.

                                A. cultratus Page            Videos                A. cultratus Care Tips

     Ilyodon furcidens is a hardy, active goodeid that is rarely aggressive with one another. Called a
    "Trout Goodeid," They are a fine community fish with others near in size, in a tank of at least 20 gallons.
    This line is selectively bred for their color and markings, and will grow to 3-4 inches. 5-15 large young are
    born every 60 days, and generally are not eaten. They will become stressed when aeration or filtration
    declines, but are otherwise a very cool looking, hardy fish.

                                I. furcidens Page           Videos           I. furcidens Care Tips

    Xiphophorus alvarezi Albino and Gold- Swordtails have the reputation for being "beginner fish",
    generally because they will often survive in a variety of poorly maintained conditions, water qualities
    and foods. It is forgotten they come from oxygenated streams with good water quality. Poor quality
    care can result in stunted, poorly colored fish that will eat their fry. These specialty swords require
    consistent water changes, oxygenation, and decent frequent feeding, for the young to develop the
    spectacular color and size these have been carefully bred to possess. These are showy fish bred with
    color and size simply not available in the commercial hobby.

                            X. alvarezi Gold Page     Videos       X. alvarezi Gold Care Tips

    Xiphophorus nexahualcoyotl is a spectacular, hardy sword that is rarely seen. Care is similar to 
    X. helleri and mayae. They are active, prefer a tank of at least 20 gallons, and the males will chase
    and show off non-stop. A breeding inconsistency is being fixed, toward full introduction soon. 20-40 
    young are born monthly, and they will eat their fry. This is the only swordtail where the male also has a 
    "gravid spot"- a coloration similar to the female's. The "nezzys" do well with non-aggressive tankmates.

                                X. nezahualcoyotl Page     Videos          X. nezahualcoyotl Care Tips

  L

 E

 S

 S

 E

 A

 S

 Y

    Jenynsia lineata, Arroyo India Moreta, Ecuador- These have a reputation for being slightly more
    difficult to keep and breed, but they do very well with the same requirements mentioned for the
    swordtails, such as decent filtration and aeration. They are a very active fish, and will decline if not 
    well fed, which may be where problems result when they occur. They are fed here multiple times per
    day a variety of dry foods, including higher protein Cichlid foods, which has made all the difference.
    Large fry are born, that are separated and raised on baby brine shrimp and quality dry fry foods.

                             Jenynsia lineata Page       Videos         Jenynsia lineata Care Page

    Skiffia multipunctata, Restar, La Isle Zamora, Mexico- These are one of the easiest goodeids to 
    keep. They prefer cooler water (72-76) and some water movement. They generally do not eat their 
    young, which grow slowly and take 3+ months to color up. Spawns of 7-20 young are born approximately 
    every 60 days.

                                S. multipunctata Page      Videos          S. multi Care Tips

    Xiphophorus mayae, High Fin mutation- This is a recent mutation that occurred here, that
    produces incredible finnage. Because it is only around 6 generations old, it does not breed
    consistently, but the variety of finnage produced is amazing. It is also quite prolific, but unlike
    the regular mayae, the High Fins are not as shy, and routinely swim out in front showing off to
    one another.

                                X. mayae HF Page         Videos           HF mayae Care Tips
 

    Puntius padamya, "Odessa"- A hardy barb, they prefer warmer temps (76-80), and need plants 
    and low to moderate light for the velvety red to be at its most intense. They can be bred as with any
    adhesive egg scatterer, but adults will eat both eggs and young. Males take 6-8 months to color up.
    Peaceful, and best in groups of 5 or more.

                                P. padamya Page          Videos           P. padamya Care Tips

    Zoogoneticus tequila. This fish is fairly easy to keep, though it is considered
    extinct in the wild and is rare in the hobby. Peaceful and pretty, the males will turn
    charcoal black when courting, with the bright orange tail stripe. Will eat their young.
    Gravid females are best removed to a tank of her own with Java moss to have 10-15
    fry, about every 60 days. Prefers occasional live food.

                                Z. tequila Page             Videos             Z. tequila Care Tips

    Limia "Tiger"- A new species recently collected from Lake Miragoane in Haiti, information on its care
    in captivity has only begun. Closely related to L. nigrofasciata, It will thrive and breed well when kept as
    the X. mayae, but can be sensitive to strange chemicals. Lethal reactions have occurred to PVC glue
    fumes or adding usually safe amounts of chlorinated water. Strong aeration and temps of 75-80 seem 
    best. Generally do not eat young. Occasional live/ frozen food is very beneficial, but not required.

                                Limia Tiger Page         Videos            L. Tiger Care Page

    Characodon lateralis- Los Berros- "The Rainbow Goodeid" This beautiful goodeid is nearly extinct
    in the wild. The male's color intensifies throughout its life, mature females develop a blue/red/
    sheen that is striking. Mature females have 5-15 young every 60 days. Males are hierarchical
    with one another, often chasing about. Hardy when kept as X. mayae (see above), live food is very 
    beneficial but not absolutely necessary. May eat young.

                                C. lateralis Page          Videos           C. lateralis Care Tips

     Limia nigrofasciata- "The Humpback Limia"- These do best in a consistent environment,
    maintained as the X. mayae (see above), 75-80 degrees, in a reasonably clean tank where mulm is
    not allowed to accumulate. These will tend to eat fry, but females rarely bother them at first after
    dropping. Live/frozen food, such as brine shrimp is important for this species to do their best,
    but they will survive and breed without it.

                                L. nigrofasciata Page           Videos          L. nigrofasciata Care Tips

                 Home     Species for Sale    The Goodeids    The Swordtails    Breeding These Fish     The Fishroom      Books     Fishkeeping Tips           

                 Keeping Select Aquatics Fish    Keeping Plants   Plant Species      Why Should I Keep Rare Fish?    Water Changes   Contact Us