Common Name- Humpback Limia
Water conditions- Not critical,
water changes, good aeration and
filtration with some water movement.
Behavior- Peaceful community fish, dominant males will
spar with one another, but it never leads to injury. peaceful with other
Breeding- 5-20 Young approx. every 30 days
Size- 2 inches
This fish is thought by some to be difficult to keep going,
or that it will crash, in that the population will suddenly die off
without a clear reason.
In fact, it is a hardy fish that will do well when the
aquarium is maintained a certain way.
They will do well in a 10 gallon aquarium with active water
movement provided from an aeration type box or inside filter. A
filter is fine, but an added airstone would be a recommended
addition. However, they do best in a larger tank of 20-30 gallons.
consistent water quality as is generally the case in a larger
tank, and prefer to have plants
available to hide in (Java fern, anubias etc.). The
dominant, older fish will generally stay out in front.
They are fine with medium to strong
Unlike the Tiger Limia, a very
close relative, the nigrofasciata seems
sensitive to ammonia buildup in a tank, such that they will die off when
the water has been allowed to decline. This is the aspect to
their care most responsible for problems when they occur. For this
reason I do
not use Java moss with them, as it
can harbor organic waste. About once a month the tank bottom will be
siphoned up. A very thin layer of
gravel is fine as long
as it stays reasonably clean.
They prefer to hide in
plants, but are affected when mulm or decaying organic waste is
allowed to collect beneath those plants. The ability to
lift up or remove plants to siphon up detritus that collects
around them is essential.
They will eat their fry,
so females should be isolated to have their young. Fortunately, with
this species the females are small enough to be
comfortable in a pet store style net breeder. In this case I
do use a little Java moss to provide hiding
places for the fry and an obstacle to the
mother trying to get to them. Be sure to still leave the
female swimming room. Keep the female in the breeder in the same tank if
possible. Be sure to feed her well in the breeder so she does
not eat the young when they are born. Like all livebearers, the female
drops between sunup and noon. Remove her as soon as you see
the young. Raise the young up on baby
brine shrimp and finely crushed
flake food. A Vegetable algea tab or flake also greatly
contributes to their health. 5-20 young are generally born.
A 20-30 gallon bare bottom (or thin layer of gravel) tank
with aeration generated water movement,
temp. in the mid 70ís, lightly-moderately
planted with medium
light is perfect. Weekly 10%
water changes, attention to keeping
the bottom reasonably clear of mulm and a quality
flake food supplemented with
baby brine shrimp occasionally will keep them at their best color
and breeding condition. Provide a net
breeder for the females when they become gravid to collect the
young, and raise the young
separately from the adults for a fair period to
give them the best odds of survival.